Ver-O-Peso fish market takes place every morning in Belém, Brazil. At the mouth of the Amazon, the river shows its size and diversity in each daily catch.
Friday, August 14, 2009
Port of Santarém
At the confluence of Rio Amazonas and Rio Tapajós is the city of Santarém. Lying halfway between Manaus and Belém, its entire river front serves as a port for the various boats passing by on their way up or downriver. You can walk for a mile along the boardwalk and see boats covering every inch of shore. During the day, people are in constant motion loading and unloading goods and preparing for the next voyage.
Wednesday, August 12, 2009
Big River
Our hammocks were strung up on the second deck of the San Marino for a two day journey from Manaus down the Amazon to Santarém.
Monday, August 10, 2009
An Evening at Teatro Amazonas
It's not what you expect to find in the middle of the rainforest but it's there. When you walk into the great hall, it feels like you are stepping out of the Amazon and back in time. Built in 1896 during Manaus' rubber boom, the opera house is an opulent reminder of past glory days. Over the years Teatro Amazonas had fallen into disuse and disrepair. But in 2001 plans were underway to restore and reopen. Ever since, it has been hosting concerts, operas, plays and more. On the night we attended, there was a free modern dance performance but it was the building that stole the show.
Sunday, August 9, 2009
The Mighty Jungle
We headed out to the Amazon in search of beauty, wildlife, and adventure. On the first night as we swam in the river turned orange by the setting sun, we knew we had found all three. And there was more to come...
Wednesday, August 5, 2009
Un Pequeño Paraíso
Normally, you take a ferry to Playa Blanca from Cartagena's harbor. It's very straight forward; you get on the ferry, you get off at the beach. But they don't run on Sunday. On Sundays you have to take a bus to Pasacaballos, then a ferry across the Rio Magdelena, then a taxi across Isla Baru.
As we're walking down the street looking for the bus stop, Temple sees a red bus with Pasacaballos on the windshield and waves it down. It's a 1960's era bus and we're the only ones on it. As we weave through the outskirts of town we get a tour of market day here: everything's for sale and everyone's in the street. We stop in the middle of the madness. The bus fills with passengers and vendors, selling lemonade and snacks. I share my seat with two little kids. As we pull away a guitar player jumps on board and serenades the bus with popular tunes. Everyone sings along.
After riding for a while we arrive in a small town where a sign reads Ferry Turistico. We hop off the bus and are greeted by a man with a sign reading Playa Blanca. He leads us to the river and points to a large wooden canoe. "Dos mil pesos" to cross he says. One dollar. A shirtless old man with a long pole pushes us slowly to the other side where a fleet of motorcycles are waiting. Turns out the taxis we need to take are mototaxis. Before I get out of the boat Temple is already sitting on the back of one with her huge backpack on. I jump on another. I think my driver is jealous of his friend's luck. The ride is long, dusty, and bumpy, but we can't help laughing as we speed along side by side across Isla Baru.
When the road ends, our drivers point down the hill. We walk down and see Playa Blanca. It is worth the trip. We walk along the beach to find D&E Hammocks, a simple structure with hanging hammocks covered in mosquito nets. We claim two hammocks and the palm leafed cabana closest to the water. We basically have the place to ourselves. We spend the next few days reading, swimming, snorkeling, eating fresh fish, and enjoying sunsets.
As we're walking down the street looking for the bus stop, Temple sees a red bus with Pasacaballos on the windshield and waves it down. It's a 1960's era bus and we're the only ones on it. As we weave through the outskirts of town we get a tour of market day here: everything's for sale and everyone's in the street. We stop in the middle of the madness. The bus fills with passengers and vendors, selling lemonade and snacks. I share my seat with two little kids. As we pull away a guitar player jumps on board and serenades the bus with popular tunes. Everyone sings along.
After riding for a while we arrive in a small town where a sign reads Ferry Turistico. We hop off the bus and are greeted by a man with a sign reading Playa Blanca. He leads us to the river and points to a large wooden canoe. "Dos mil pesos" to cross he says. One dollar. A shirtless old man with a long pole pushes us slowly to the other side where a fleet of motorcycles are waiting. Turns out the taxis we need to take are mototaxis. Before I get out of the boat Temple is already sitting on the back of one with her huge backpack on. I jump on another. I think my driver is jealous of his friend's luck. The ride is long, dusty, and bumpy, but we can't help laughing as we speed along side by side across Isla Baru.
When the road ends, our drivers point down the hill. We walk down and see Playa Blanca. It is worth the trip. We walk along the beach to find D&E Hammocks, a simple structure with hanging hammocks covered in mosquito nets. We claim two hammocks and the palm leafed cabana closest to the water. We basically have the place to ourselves. We spend the next few days reading, swimming, snorkeling, eating fresh fish, and enjoying sunsets.
Walls of Cartagena
When the Spanish ruled the Caribbean, Cartagena de Indias was the jewel of the empire. All the silver from Peru and gold from Mexico came through the port on its way to Spain. With all these riches it was a pirates dream, but also feared because it was known as one of the most impenetrable fortresses, defended by huge fleets. Very few buccaneers dared challenge its walls and firepower. But famously, Sir Francis Drake with backing from the Queen of England, sacked the city in 1586, holding it for a month before receiving a ransom of 200 million dollars. Today, the pirates and treasures are gone but you can see why someone would fight over it.
The people, the buildings, and the wall around city are reminders of Cartagena's long past. The wall which once kept people out is now where locals come to watch the sunset, fly a kite, play futbol, or just to be with friends.
The people, the buildings, and the wall around city are reminders of Cartagena's long past. The wall which once kept people out is now where locals come to watch the sunset, fly a kite, play futbol, or just to be with friends.
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