We first glimpse the Treasury after walking through a long deep canyon called the Siq, when sandstone walls reveal the intricately carved face of Petra. The stone facade glows golden, filling the air with an ethereal magic. After the postcard Petra experience, I worry that the rest of the Nabatean metropolis will disappoint, but the magic continues as the city of sandstone sprawls in every direction. We hike around the site for hours, exploring the holes and eroded facades that occupy every nook and cranny. Even more amazing is the visible effect of time on the ancient walls. The faces of tombs appear to be melting in a gothic display of dripping reds, purples, yellows and blues.
While looking for the Treasury viewpoint from the top of the canyon, I follow Clay up a stairway that seems to lead to nowhere. After many steps we arrive at the Sacred High Place- a carved stone altar used for rituals in biblical times. Although it's not what we're looking for, the views are worth the hike. Back down the stairway to nowhere, we pass the Royal Tombs and finally find the trail to the viewpoint. We briefly lose our way when, suddenly, the top of the Treasury's facade appears. The new perspective ignites a sense of discovery in both of us.
Down from the viewpoint, we take the main road through the center of the ancient city, passing souvenir shops, camel caravans and mysterious temple ruins. We head for the Monastery which is on the top of a mountain that we climb with several other tourists, many on donkeys. The reward is the remarkable Monastery, which, like the Treasury, is mostly a facade, the inside being only an empty room.
After climbing for several hours, we are ready to head back but I go for an alternative route. Soon, we are in a whole new part of the ancient city, seeing incredible tombs and ruins, some only partially uncovered. We follow a path that takes us to the Renaissance Tomb, Tomb of the Soldier and the Lion Fountain. All magnificent. Low on fuel, I'm hoping to turn the corner to find the main road but instead the trail leads up and up, more stairs. Clay helps me keep a good attitude when I'm seconds away from hopping on the next donkey I see. As soon as we reach the summit, Clay sighs, "Sacred High Place". We've climbed the back way to where we were that morning. We laugh at ourselves, enjoy the views again and finally descend, heading back to the hotel to rest before our New Years celebration begins.
That evening, we join a small crowd to walk the candlelit path through the Siq in silence. When we arrive, the space in front of the Treasury is dotted with paper lanterns. Traditional music plays and we drink hot Beduoin tea, enjoying the Treasury in moonlight.
Showing posts with label civilizations. Show all posts
Showing posts with label civilizations. Show all posts
Friday, January 1, 2010
Sunday, December 20, 2009
Thebes
In the middle of ancient Thebes, now Luxor, rise two impressive temples, Karnak and Luxor. Karnak has a incredible hypostyle hall with over 100 towering columns covered in hieroglyphs. Many pharaohs added and expanded on Karnak over the years making it one of the largest religious sites from the ancient world. Karnak was once connected to the Luxor Temple by a sphinx-lined street. Restoration is underway to restore this pathway.
Upon its discovery, Luxor Temple was buried under houses and an important mosque. When archeologists started to uncover it, the local citizens refused to let them destroy the mosque. Now it, along with remnants of Coptic Christians who painted murals over the temple walls, shows Luxor's long and layered history.
Upon its discovery, Luxor Temple was buried under houses and an important mosque. When archeologists started to uncover it, the local citizens refused to let them destroy the mosque. Now it, along with remnants of Coptic Christians who painted murals over the temple walls, shows Luxor's long and layered history.
Wednesday, December 16, 2009
Temples of Upper Egypt
Temple loves temples. Needless to say she was digging the Nile Valley. I'm more of a simpleton, thinking that once you've seen one offering scene of lotus you've seen them all. But amateur Egyptologist Temple Moore's enthusiasm was infectious. She was soon teaching me and our new friends all she had learned in art history class.
Tuesday, December 15, 2009
Abu Simbel
The temples of Abu Simbel are three hours south of Aswan near the border with Sudan. The tourist convoy leaves every morning at 3:00am and returns around 1:00pm. The crazy hours are so you miss the extreme midday heat in the desert. Although in the winter heat is not such a problem, the schedule doesn't change. So in the wee hours of the morning, we're squeezing into yet another mini bus. It's an uncomfortable journey on which neither of us sleep. More importantly, however, when we get to Abu Simbel, we're the first ones through the gate and our first views of the towering Ramses II are amazing and devoid of tourists.
Thursday, December 10, 2009
Pyramid Fields
Out of the taxi window, we get our first glimpse of the Giza Pyramids. We have only been in Cairo a few hours and are determined to get on a camel asap. All our romantic notions of camels, sand dunes and pyramids quickly collide and crumble into modern Giza. Our camels look abused. Instead of sand dunes we are on city streets. And very far from the pyramids.
This camel ride begins a pattern in Egypt. Doing something you think will be amazing, then it turns out to be bootleg, and just as you're about to lose hope, mystic ancient Egypt appears and takes your breath away. Because after riding through the neighborhood with no pyramids in sight, we ride past a graveyard and into the desert, not very far into the desert but still. Just a few sand dunes away are the three pyramids. Aside from the large chain-link fence with security cameras patrolling the perimeter, the view is time travel back four thousand years. It's hard to add any insight to pyramids that were considered ancient by the ancient Greeks. They are timeless, looking thousands of years old and space-age all at once. Or like a constellation, appearing, from a far sand dune, as stars in space. Watching one sunset of the million the pyramids have seen and the millions more they will see, is the perfect end to the first day of our Egyptian adventure.
Early the following morning, we're alone at the Dahshur pyramid field. Our first up close encounter is with the Red Pyramid. We walk around in awe, then climb up the walls to crawl down into the tomb. Tight squeeze is an understatement. Doubled over, we waddle down the narrow passage until it opens into a large chamber. It smells bad and is burning hot. Soon we are crawling back out. Behind the Red Pyramid is the Bent Pyramid. During construction they had to change the angle half way up to avoid collapse. It's not structurally sound to this day and is off limits to tourists.
Our next stop is the Saqqara Pyramid, the first pyramid and first stone structure ever built. The work of the great architect Imhotep, it is a step pyramid making it unique from the more famous complete pyramids.
To end the day we head to the Giza Pyramids. After having Dahshur and Saqqara basically to ourselves, the number of people at Giza is overwhelming and a little demystifying. Large even on a modern scale, every apsect about the pyramids is difficult to comprehend. Down the hill sits the Sphinx. No riddles were asked. The only question was how do I get away from all these people? But the throngs of tourists are appropriate. It's been a wonder for nearly five thousand years.
This camel ride begins a pattern in Egypt. Doing something you think will be amazing, then it turns out to be bootleg, and just as you're about to lose hope, mystic ancient Egypt appears and takes your breath away. Because after riding through the neighborhood with no pyramids in sight, we ride past a graveyard and into the desert, not very far into the desert but still. Just a few sand dunes away are the three pyramids. Aside from the large chain-link fence with security cameras patrolling the perimeter, the view is time travel back four thousand years. It's hard to add any insight to pyramids that were considered ancient by the ancient Greeks. They are timeless, looking thousands of years old and space-age all at once. Or like a constellation, appearing, from a far sand dune, as stars in space. Watching one sunset of the million the pyramids have seen and the millions more they will see, is the perfect end to the first day of our Egyptian adventure.
Early the following morning, we're alone at the Dahshur pyramid field. Our first up close encounter is with the Red Pyramid. We walk around in awe, then climb up the walls to crawl down into the tomb. Tight squeeze is an understatement. Doubled over, we waddle down the narrow passage until it opens into a large chamber. It smells bad and is burning hot. Soon we are crawling back out. Behind the Red Pyramid is the Bent Pyramid. During construction they had to change the angle half way up to avoid collapse. It's not structurally sound to this day and is off limits to tourists.
Our next stop is the Saqqara Pyramid, the first pyramid and first stone structure ever built. The work of the great architect Imhotep, it is a step pyramid making it unique from the more famous complete pyramids.
To end the day we head to the Giza Pyramids. After having Dahshur and Saqqara basically to ourselves, the number of people at Giza is overwhelming and a little demystifying. Large even on a modern scale, every apsect about the pyramids is difficult to comprehend. Down the hill sits the Sphinx. No riddles were asked. The only question was how do I get away from all these people? But the throngs of tourists are appropriate. It's been a wonder for nearly five thousand years.
Friday, July 24, 2009
Machu Picchu
We awoke at 4:45 am to get in line for the bus to Machu Picchu- a long line of people hoping to get the first glimpse of the famous Inca citadel. As we climbed towards Machu Picchu, the surrounding mountains were covered in thick cloud creating an eerie and mysterious aura. As we entered the ruins, we could only see the Inca formations through a cloudy haze. After an hour, the fog begin to lift and the majesty of Machu Picchu finally revealed itself.
In the background, Huayna Picchu mountain towers over the massive fortress of Machu Picchu which in its hey day hosted the Inca king and his family. Felix gave us a tour of the ruins, including the Temple of the Three Windows, the Temple of the Condor and the Temple of the Sun. He explained how slaves built the terraces and how they transported and smoothed the rocks for construction. It is believed that during the time the Incas abandoned the fortress to keep it hidden from the Spanish, it was still under construction.
We walked around the metropolis for hours, absorbing the energy and magnificent views of the city. We marveled at its scale and the strength of its people who, through personal sacrifice, protected it from destruction.
In the background, Huayna Picchu mountain towers over the massive fortress of Machu Picchu which in its hey day hosted the Inca king and his family. Felix gave us a tour of the ruins, including the Temple of the Three Windows, the Temple of the Condor and the Temple of the Sun. He explained how slaves built the terraces and how they transported and smoothed the rocks for construction. It is believed that during the time the Incas abandoned the fortress to keep it hidden from the Spanish, it was still under construction.
We walked around the metropolis for hours, absorbing the energy and magnificent views of the city. We marveled at its scale and the strength of its people who, through personal sacrifice, protected it from destruction.
Salkantay Trek to Machu Picchu
I was lucky to have my two friends Lorie and Lindsay Coker join me for the 5 day Salkantay Trek to Machu Picchu. This trek is sometimes called "the other Inca trail" and it took us through the highlands of the Andes to a challenging climb between the magnificent Huamantay and Salkantay mountains. After descending through cloudforest and rainforest we would arrive at Aguas Calientes, the gateway to the incredible ruins of Machu Picchu.
A Canadian named Vaughan joined us along with our guide Felix, nicknamed "Gato", a cook, Herbert, and two porters, Fabian and Tomas, who were very appreciated for the endless support and great food they provided. Every day we had three vegetarian meals with fresh local vegetables and fruit. Before dinner we played cards and we went to bed after taking in the beautiful stars and llama constellations that we'd never seen before. Besides a day pack, the majority of our things were carried by strong mules which Herbert, Tomas and Fabian lead past us everyday in order to set up lunch or camp for the night.
When we asked Felix, what the name of our outfitter 'Apus Peru' meant, he said that 'apu' is the spirit or god of a mountain and each mountain in the Andes has its own apu. We found this word and belief pervasive in the Peruvian culture and eventually in our own minds after facing the majestic mountains ourselves. Salkantay mountain is the second highest mountain in the Peruvian Andes at 20,569 feet. After acclimating at our first campsite, we spent 3 hours scaling a mountainside of intense switchbacks to arrive at the Salkantay Pass- a 15,000 foot plateau between Huamantay and Salkantay. It was extraordinary. The glacial peaks were engulfed in violent white cloud and there was a stillness in the space between the mountains. Perhaps it was due to the 50% less oxygen available but the view was absolutely breathtaking.
As we descended, the scenery was no less beautiful. We passed huge boulders covering steep hills, tranquil streams flowing past small straw homes, and eventually the start of the jungle. We welcomed the colorful flowers and vegetation as much as the abundant oxygen in the air. After camping in the rainforest, we continued our descent drawing closer and closer to a raging river. At our third campsite we went to an expansive hot springs where we had our first bath in three days. The next day we walked into the town of Aguas Calientes along train tracks where we had beautiful views of Machu Picchu and Huaynu Picchu. We had a celebratory last dinner together in the town before heading to bed in anticipation of the climactic Inca ruins the next day.
A Canadian named Vaughan joined us along with our guide Felix, nicknamed "Gato", a cook, Herbert, and two porters, Fabian and Tomas, who were very appreciated for the endless support and great food they provided. Every day we had three vegetarian meals with fresh local vegetables and fruit. Before dinner we played cards and we went to bed after taking in the beautiful stars and llama constellations that we'd never seen before. Besides a day pack, the majority of our things were carried by strong mules which Herbert, Tomas and Fabian lead past us everyday in order to set up lunch or camp for the night.
When we asked Felix, what the name of our outfitter 'Apus Peru' meant, he said that 'apu' is the spirit or god of a mountain and each mountain in the Andes has its own apu. We found this word and belief pervasive in the Peruvian culture and eventually in our own minds after facing the majestic mountains ourselves. Salkantay mountain is the second highest mountain in the Peruvian Andes at 20,569 feet. After acclimating at our first campsite, we spent 3 hours scaling a mountainside of intense switchbacks to arrive at the Salkantay Pass- a 15,000 foot plateau between Huamantay and Salkantay. It was extraordinary. The glacial peaks were engulfed in violent white cloud and there was a stillness in the space between the mountains. Perhaps it was due to the 50% less oxygen available but the view was absolutely breathtaking.
As we descended, the scenery was no less beautiful. We passed huge boulders covering steep hills, tranquil streams flowing past small straw homes, and eventually the start of the jungle. We welcomed the colorful flowers and vegetation as much as the abundant oxygen in the air. After camping in the rainforest, we continued our descent drawing closer and closer to a raging river. At our third campsite we went to an expansive hot springs where we had our first bath in three days. The next day we walked into the town of Aguas Calientes along train tracks where we had beautiful views of Machu Picchu and Huaynu Picchu. We had a celebratory last dinner together in the town before heading to bed in anticipation of the climactic Inca ruins the next day.
Tuesday, July 7, 2009
Isla del Sol
At 12,500 feet above sea level, Lake Titicaca, which means "Gray Puma" in Quechua, is the highest navigable lake in the world. Our boat left early from Copacabana, Bolivia to get to Isla del Sol, the largest and most sacred island on Lake Titicaca. After an hour we arrived and climbed its rocky southern side to see the ruins of Pilco Kaima, a former palace and retreat for the Inca. The origin story of the Incas tells us that the almighty Sun God Inti and the Moon God were born out of Lago Titicaca and Manco Capac, the first Inca and son of Inti, was born on this island. Alejandro gave us a great tour of the ruins and an understanding for the spiritual importance of this place, to which many Aymara and Quechua people make pilgrimages each year. After our return trip we enjoyed a beautiful sunset in Copacabana.
Tuesday, June 30, 2009
Tiwanaku
One of the most important pre-Inca civilizations in South America is the empire of Tiwanaku. At its height, it included half of Bolivia, southern Peru, northern Chile and northwest Argentina. Tiwanaku dates back as early as 1500 B.C. while the current archaeological site, a small piece of this once great empire, includes ruins from the 8th to 10th centuries A.D. The early Andean peoples utilized many technologies that would become integral to the success of the Incas: copper smelting, bronze production, solar calendars and a raised field agricultural system. Tiwanaku still maintains its cultural importance to the modern descendants of the Aymara and Quechua people.
The religious significance of Tiwanaku is visible in its temples, monoliths, and other spiritual architecture. Through trade and religious influence, Tiwanaku grew to be the center of the Andean world. Archaeologists speculate that the fall of this empire was due to a devastating drought around 1000 AD. The Incas would incorporate what was left of the people, the land, and the religion of Tiwanaku into their own empire. Much of the remnants of Tiwanaku has been destroyed over the centuries mainly by the Spanish who came spreading Catholicism and destroying images of, what they believed to be, false idols.
The remaining structures of the Tiwanaku empire leaves a lot to the imagination. Alejandro, our very knowledgeable guide, showed us around the archaeological site explaining what is known and what is theorized about these fascinating relics.
The religious significance of Tiwanaku is visible in its temples, monoliths, and other spiritual architecture. Through trade and religious influence, Tiwanaku grew to be the center of the Andean world. Archaeologists speculate that the fall of this empire was due to a devastating drought around 1000 AD. The Incas would incorporate what was left of the people, the land, and the religion of Tiwanaku into their own empire. Much of the remnants of Tiwanaku has been destroyed over the centuries mainly by the Spanish who came spreading Catholicism and destroying images of, what they believed to be, false idols.
The remaining structures of the Tiwanaku empire leaves a lot to the imagination. Alejandro, our very knowledgeable guide, showed us around the archaeological site explaining what is known and what is theorized about these fascinating relics.
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