Our hammocks were strung up on the second deck of the San Marino for a two day journey from Manaus down the Amazon to Santarém.
Wednesday, August 12, 2009
Monday, August 10, 2009
An Evening at Teatro Amazonas
It's not what you expect to find in the middle of the rainforest but it's there. When you walk into the great hall, it feels like you are stepping out of the Amazon and back in time. Built in 1896 during Manaus' rubber boom, the opera house is an opulent reminder of past glory days. Over the years Teatro Amazonas had fallen into disuse and disrepair. But in 2001 plans were underway to restore and reopen. Ever since, it has been hosting concerts, operas, plays and more. On the night we attended, there was a free modern dance performance but it was the building that stole the show.
Sunday, August 9, 2009
The Mighty Jungle
We headed out to the Amazon in search of beauty, wildlife, and adventure. On the first night as we swam in the river turned orange by the setting sun, we knew we had found all three. And there was more to come...
Wednesday, August 5, 2009
Un Pequeño Paraíso
Normally, you take a ferry to Playa Blanca from Cartagena's harbor. It's very straight forward; you get on the ferry, you get off at the beach. But they don't run on Sunday. On Sundays you have to take a bus to Pasacaballos, then a ferry across the Rio Magdelena, then a taxi across Isla Baru.
As we're walking down the street looking for the bus stop, Temple sees a red bus with Pasacaballos on the windshield and waves it down. It's a 1960's era bus and we're the only ones on it. As we weave through the outskirts of town we get a tour of market day here: everything's for sale and everyone's in the street. We stop in the middle of the madness. The bus fills with passengers and vendors, selling lemonade and snacks. I share my seat with two little kids. As we pull away a guitar player jumps on board and serenades the bus with popular tunes. Everyone sings along.
After riding for a while we arrive in a small town where a sign reads Ferry Turistico. We hop off the bus and are greeted by a man with a sign reading Playa Blanca. He leads us to the river and points to a large wooden canoe. "Dos mil pesos" to cross he says. One dollar. A shirtless old man with a long pole pushes us slowly to the other side where a fleet of motorcycles are waiting. Turns out the taxis we need to take are mototaxis. Before I get out of the boat Temple is already sitting on the back of one with her huge backpack on. I jump on another. I think my driver is jealous of his friend's luck. The ride is long, dusty, and bumpy, but we can't help laughing as we speed along side by side across Isla Baru.
When the road ends, our drivers point down the hill. We walk down and see Playa Blanca. It is worth the trip. We walk along the beach to find D&E Hammocks, a simple structure with hanging hammocks covered in mosquito nets. We claim two hammocks and the palm leafed cabana closest to the water. We basically have the place to ourselves. We spend the next few days reading, swimming, snorkeling, eating fresh fish, and enjoying sunsets.
As we're walking down the street looking for the bus stop, Temple sees a red bus with Pasacaballos on the windshield and waves it down. It's a 1960's era bus and we're the only ones on it. As we weave through the outskirts of town we get a tour of market day here: everything's for sale and everyone's in the street. We stop in the middle of the madness. The bus fills with passengers and vendors, selling lemonade and snacks. I share my seat with two little kids. As we pull away a guitar player jumps on board and serenades the bus with popular tunes. Everyone sings along.
After riding for a while we arrive in a small town where a sign reads Ferry Turistico. We hop off the bus and are greeted by a man with a sign reading Playa Blanca. He leads us to the river and points to a large wooden canoe. "Dos mil pesos" to cross he says. One dollar. A shirtless old man with a long pole pushes us slowly to the other side where a fleet of motorcycles are waiting. Turns out the taxis we need to take are mototaxis. Before I get out of the boat Temple is already sitting on the back of one with her huge backpack on. I jump on another. I think my driver is jealous of his friend's luck. The ride is long, dusty, and bumpy, but we can't help laughing as we speed along side by side across Isla Baru.
When the road ends, our drivers point down the hill. We walk down and see Playa Blanca. It is worth the trip. We walk along the beach to find D&E Hammocks, a simple structure with hanging hammocks covered in mosquito nets. We claim two hammocks and the palm leafed cabana closest to the water. We basically have the place to ourselves. We spend the next few days reading, swimming, snorkeling, eating fresh fish, and enjoying sunsets.
Walls of Cartagena
When the Spanish ruled the Caribbean, Cartagena de Indias was the jewel of the empire. All the silver from Peru and gold from Mexico came through the port on its way to Spain. With all these riches it was a pirates dream, but also feared because it was known as one of the most impenetrable fortresses, defended by huge fleets. Very few buccaneers dared challenge its walls and firepower. But famously, Sir Francis Drake with backing from the Queen of England, sacked the city in 1586, holding it for a month before receiving a ransom of 200 million dollars. Today, the pirates and treasures are gone but you can see why someone would fight over it.
The people, the buildings, and the wall around city are reminders of Cartagena's long past. The wall which once kept people out is now where locals come to watch the sunset, fly a kite, play futbol, or just to be with friends.
The people, the buildings, and the wall around city are reminders of Cartagena's long past. The wall which once kept people out is now where locals come to watch the sunset, fly a kite, play futbol, or just to be with friends.
Friday, July 24, 2009
Machu Picchu
We awoke at 4:45 am to get in line for the bus to Machu Picchu- a long line of people hoping to get the first glimpse of the famous Inca citadel. As we climbed towards Machu Picchu, the surrounding mountains were covered in thick cloud creating an eerie and mysterious aura. As we entered the ruins, we could only see the Inca formations through a cloudy haze. After an hour, the fog begin to lift and the majesty of Machu Picchu finally revealed itself.
In the background, Huayna Picchu mountain towers over the massive fortress of Machu Picchu which in its hey day hosted the Inca king and his family. Felix gave us a tour of the ruins, including the Temple of the Three Windows, the Temple of the Condor and the Temple of the Sun. He explained how slaves built the terraces and how they transported and smoothed the rocks for construction. It is believed that during the time the Incas abandoned the fortress to keep it hidden from the Spanish, it was still under construction.
We walked around the metropolis for hours, absorbing the energy and magnificent views of the city. We marveled at its scale and the strength of its people who, through personal sacrifice, protected it from destruction.
In the background, Huayna Picchu mountain towers over the massive fortress of Machu Picchu which in its hey day hosted the Inca king and his family. Felix gave us a tour of the ruins, including the Temple of the Three Windows, the Temple of the Condor and the Temple of the Sun. He explained how slaves built the terraces and how they transported and smoothed the rocks for construction. It is believed that during the time the Incas abandoned the fortress to keep it hidden from the Spanish, it was still under construction.
We walked around the metropolis for hours, absorbing the energy and magnificent views of the city. We marveled at its scale and the strength of its people who, through personal sacrifice, protected it from destruction.
Salkantay Trek to Machu Picchu
I was lucky to have my two friends Lorie and Lindsay Coker join me for the 5 day Salkantay Trek to Machu Picchu. This trek is sometimes called "the other Inca trail" and it took us through the highlands of the Andes to a challenging climb between the magnificent Huamantay and Salkantay mountains. After descending through cloudforest and rainforest we would arrive at Aguas Calientes, the gateway to the incredible ruins of Machu Picchu.
A Canadian named Vaughan joined us along with our guide Felix, nicknamed "Gato", a cook, Herbert, and two porters, Fabian and Tomas, who were very appreciated for the endless support and great food they provided. Every day we had three vegetarian meals with fresh local vegetables and fruit. Before dinner we played cards and we went to bed after taking in the beautiful stars and llama constellations that we'd never seen before. Besides a day pack, the majority of our things were carried by strong mules which Herbert, Tomas and Fabian lead past us everyday in order to set up lunch or camp for the night.
When we asked Felix, what the name of our outfitter 'Apus Peru' meant, he said that 'apu' is the spirit or god of a mountain and each mountain in the Andes has its own apu. We found this word and belief pervasive in the Peruvian culture and eventually in our own minds after facing the majestic mountains ourselves. Salkantay mountain is the second highest mountain in the Peruvian Andes at 20,569 feet. After acclimating at our first campsite, we spent 3 hours scaling a mountainside of intense switchbacks to arrive at the Salkantay Pass- a 15,000 foot plateau between Huamantay and Salkantay. It was extraordinary. The glacial peaks were engulfed in violent white cloud and there was a stillness in the space between the mountains. Perhaps it was due to the 50% less oxygen available but the view was absolutely breathtaking.
As we descended, the scenery was no less beautiful. We passed huge boulders covering steep hills, tranquil streams flowing past small straw homes, and eventually the start of the jungle. We welcomed the colorful flowers and vegetation as much as the abundant oxygen in the air. After camping in the rainforest, we continued our descent drawing closer and closer to a raging river. At our third campsite we went to an expansive hot springs where we had our first bath in three days. The next day we walked into the town of Aguas Calientes along train tracks where we had beautiful views of Machu Picchu and Huaynu Picchu. We had a celebratory last dinner together in the town before heading to bed in anticipation of the climactic Inca ruins the next day.
A Canadian named Vaughan joined us along with our guide Felix, nicknamed "Gato", a cook, Herbert, and two porters, Fabian and Tomas, who were very appreciated for the endless support and great food they provided. Every day we had three vegetarian meals with fresh local vegetables and fruit. Before dinner we played cards and we went to bed after taking in the beautiful stars and llama constellations that we'd never seen before. Besides a day pack, the majority of our things were carried by strong mules which Herbert, Tomas and Fabian lead past us everyday in order to set up lunch or camp for the night.
When we asked Felix, what the name of our outfitter 'Apus Peru' meant, he said that 'apu' is the spirit or god of a mountain and each mountain in the Andes has its own apu. We found this word and belief pervasive in the Peruvian culture and eventually in our own minds after facing the majestic mountains ourselves. Salkantay mountain is the second highest mountain in the Peruvian Andes at 20,569 feet. After acclimating at our first campsite, we spent 3 hours scaling a mountainside of intense switchbacks to arrive at the Salkantay Pass- a 15,000 foot plateau between Huamantay and Salkantay. It was extraordinary. The glacial peaks were engulfed in violent white cloud and there was a stillness in the space between the mountains. Perhaps it was due to the 50% less oxygen available but the view was absolutely breathtaking.
As we descended, the scenery was no less beautiful. We passed huge boulders covering steep hills, tranquil streams flowing past small straw homes, and eventually the start of the jungle. We welcomed the colorful flowers and vegetation as much as the abundant oxygen in the air. After camping in the rainforest, we continued our descent drawing closer and closer to a raging river. At our third campsite we went to an expansive hot springs where we had our first bath in three days. The next day we walked into the town of Aguas Calientes along train tracks where we had beautiful views of Machu Picchu and Huaynu Picchu. We had a celebratory last dinner together in the town before heading to bed in anticipation of the climactic Inca ruins the next day.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)
Posts
